Sunday, December 12, 2010

New routes

With Spring we are back on the rock
We have done a few new routes

At Wye Creek

Harold's wall
A link from Chimney sweep 16 to the top of Fata morgana 15, making a 2 pitch adventure. (Chimney sweep is dirty on the bottom half!)

Main Wall
A new route Called Twelve 17 that starts on the first 4 bolts of Almi then another 9 of it's own - GREAT wee route. **

Up South Wye

Gauntlet (Mixed). On the North side
We finally finished the route we backed off last summer . Just as well we did rapping in the Loose rocks that turned us back ground up, fell like a deck of cards with just a wee nudge. Hence the name. We did 2 pitches of 17, there is a possible 3rd pitch But it would be mid 20's, and we're not up to it with Aaron's injury and my lack of ability.





Big mama crack 16. I thought this looked awesome but it was only OK. Run out gear! 1 bolt + trad


We are starting a new line as well which will be the best of the 3 from the quick look we've had so far. It will be mixed too



Check out the new routes book in the Bivvy for more details!

The garden

Everything is flowering!

 ribbon wood

Beech

This year was the first flowering of beech, cabbage tree's, Kowhai, and ribbon wood. Loving it!

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Du Faur centennary climb

On Dec the 4th it will be one hundred years since Freda du faur was the first woman to climb Mt cook/Aoraki
To celebrate there was a host of events an I attended a woman's ascent of Du Faur peak in Aoraki national park
Carla,Jane( trip leader),Sam and I, Quet, Elke, katrina and Eveline
Sam has me in a headlock since I got her into this!


 day 1: Along the hooker past the lake and the Glacier headescorted by Lee anne and Alison



 Up through the Morraine( chossy gravel Slide to cliff)
 Up some cool rock scrabling interupted by never ending scree sections.


 we stayed in and around Copeland shelter (Aoraki in Reflection)

 day 2: In the morning we Crossed to the west Coast via Fitzgerald pass


Du Faur: our intended peak.

Ket and Elke My partners in descent. We traversed the Divide and Descended the eugenie Galcier
Lunc at top of Eugenie

At Sefton Bivvy looking up at the Glacier we just crossed
 A fabulous weekend with some really lovely ladies.


Thanks to Jane and Elke for their Patient guidance

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Aaron's film Job


In Moustache on location, and below the link to the finished result.
Aaron was the body double for the Actor so it is him falling and climbing
http://www.bigpictures.co.nz/index.php?p=work&l=en
(Click on EOS Canon)

Friday, September 3, 2010

Earthquake

We've had a few calls checking we are safe.( we are) The South Island isn't that small people the Earthquake was in Christchurch. 550km away , though were woken up and  am rethinking my sleeping attire as by the time I figured out where my clothes were it was all over. We only shook for about 40 secs here, but friends In CHCH said that it went on for about 12 mins!
Same size as Haiti( 7.1) but luckily no Deaths to date. I am supposed to stay there Monday night, but with no sewerage I will try and book further North!

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Ice climbing at wye

We have had heaps of Ice climbing several Day trips and A 3 day camping trip as well.
Our friend Guillaume came camping with his awesome camera so we didn't take many photo's ourselves.
His are so good, he'll save them to sell I think.

A few Pics

Aaron leading Iron curtain


Oops. I knocked a Chunk of ice on myself. Wound closure strips to stop the scaring and a couple of days looking like Aaron beats me and I'll be fine.


behind the top tier of ice at Wye creek is a nice cave. People camping often sleep there. It is sheltered for lunch.

Holidays part 1 Milford

We checked out the Darran Mountains at winter.
The Ice was a little Thin for us to climb but the Scenery as amazing as in Summer



Kitting up in Cirque creek for a little explore



Cirque creek.


me checking out the view



the creek in Gertrude valley( there was Frost everywhere)

Sunday, June 20, 2010

grand couloir

tour and Board
Ice in background is Alta slabs
Check our tracks out 

Sunday, June 13, 2010

A weekend of Ski touring

We had a great time Touring around on our split boards
On saturday we took advantage of a 4 hr break between cold fronts and Went up and down Mt Dewar on our split boards..amazing snow!

On the way up


Aaron at the top

on Sunday we went up to Wye saddle, thinking we would go down and check out the ice conditions The uneven traversing was a bit tough on my recovering leg so we went up wyre Dome and Back to lake alta instead.

Sally hiking the last steep bit up to Wye dome

Holidays in 3 weeks ...I'm determined not to re injure my Hammy and ruin the holiday.
Off to the Airport now so the pics will be added on my return. some nice ones so check back on the weekend!

Monday, June 7, 2010

My rambling thoughts on Feminism, Climbing, Family and how lucky I am.

The NZ Alpine club is starting to think about celebrating 100 years since Freda du Faur  was the first woman to climb Mt Cook/ Aoraki in Dec 1910.

This had me thinking about the changes in society since, and how important it is that someone is brave enough to make the first steps that have bought about the freedoms we have now.

Here is Fredas words…

We decided therefore to climb Mount Sealy on the first fine day, the weather having turned bad after our day on Mount Kinsey. Mount Sealy requires a bivouac, as it is some distance from the Hermitage, and there are no huts in that direction. This fact did not trouble me, but I soon learnt to my sorrow that I had to reckon with the other people in the house. As I was a girl, travelling alone, the women in the house apparently considered themselves more or less responsible for my actions. On Mount Kinsey I had been accompanied by a tourist who wished to join our party. As soon as I cheerfully announced, when asked, that I was going to climb Mount Sealy alone with a guide, I found myself up against all the cherished conventions of the middle-aged. In vain I argued and pointed out that I had come to the mountains to climb, not to sit on the veranda and admire the view. If I were to limit my climbs to occasions on which I could induce another woman or man to accompany me, I might as well take the next boat home. At the moment there was no one in the hotel who could or would climb Mount Sealy; there was not the ghost of a climber on the premises, only women who found a two-mile walk quite sufficient for their powers. This they could not deny, but they assured me in all seriousness that if I went out alone with a guide I would lose my reputation.

The fact that the guide in question was Peter Graham, whose reputation as a man was one at which the most rigid moralist could not cavil, made no difference. They acknowledged it was true, but seemed absolutely incapable of applying it to the facts of the case. One old lady implored me with tears in her eyes not to “spoil my life for so small a thing as climbing a mountain.” I declined gently but firmly to believe that it would be spoilt, and added, with some heat I am afraid, that if my reputation was so fragile a thing that it would not bear such a test, then I would be very well rid of a useless article. Though not convincing me that I was doing anything wrong, they had succeeded in worrying me considerably. I turned over plans in my mind, seeking a way out of the difficulty; for about ten minutes I almost succeeded in wishing that I possessed that useful appendage to a woman climber, a husband. However, I concluded sadly that even if I possessed him he would probably consider climbing unfeminine, and so my last state might be worse than my first, and the “possible he” was dismissed as unhelpful at this crisis of my affairs. Instead I sought out Graham and told him that the female population was holding up hands of horror, and asked what we were going to do about it. He suggested a compromise in the shape of taking a porter with us. I agreed to this, but felt vindictive when I thought of the extra expense entailed, and threatened to send the bill into my tormentors. Graham agreed that advice was cheap and that they might feel rather different if they were asked £1 a day for it. However, it seemed like the thin edge of the wedge, and later I would probably be beyond their advice. I sighed, not for the first time in my existence, over the limits imposed upon me by the mere fact that I was unfortunate enough to be born a woman. I would like to see a man asked to pay for something he neither needed nor wanted, when he had been hoarding up every penny so that he need not be cramped for want of funds. I don’t wish to pose as a martyr, but merely to point out the disadvantages of being a woman pioneer even in the colonies, where we are supposed to be so much less conventional than elsewhere. I was the first unmarried woman who had wanted to climb in New Zealand, and in consequence I received all the hard knocks until one day when I awoke more or less famous in the mountaineering world, after which I could and did do exactly as seemed to me best.
Fortunately in this world, the wonder of one day is taken as a matter of course the next; so now, five years after my first fight for individual freedom, the girl climber at the Hermitage need expect nothing worse than raised eyebrows when she starts out unchaperoned and clad in climbing costume. It is some consolation to have achieved as much as this, and to have blazed one more little path through ignorance and convention, and added one tiny spark to the ever-growing beacon lighted by the women of this generation to help their fellow-travellers climb out of the dark woods and valleys of conventional tradition and gain the fresh, invigorating air and wider view-point of the mountain-tops.

 …and yet I have never thought twice about my place in the hills, with so many women ahead of me. Freda, Jill Tremaine, Pat Deavoll, Lydia Bradey, and all the Wonderful and capable women of the Alpine Sports Club I spent my Childhood scrambling along behind in the hills.

My biggest role model in the hills and in Life is my Mum. She had to leave school at 15 as it wasn’t worth educating her as she would get married.  Only one generation later I never doubted my rights to access any opportunity I desired.

Mum you rock. Going back to nursing school later. Loving and supporting us all, studing at night, running the house, your Career. You are a true hero.

Next time some one patronises me and underestimates me due to my gender I will breathe through it, thinking how lucky I am, It is not the whole world, just one idiot. Should I need to take a stand, I will not feel so alone.




Saturday, May 29, 2010

Thwarted

Today I thought I would go up Remarkables for a snow shoe to check out the ice lines. The Ski field website said closed but in the last couple of hours the snowline had shrunk back so I thought it would be fine. I was so Confident that even when I got to the road closed barrier I let myself through...The grader had been through I hadn't needed chains yet. Soon however I met the grader and beyond that the snow was too thick for me, about a foot deep Maybe a truck would get up but if you got stuck I wouldn't expect help getting out with all the warnings!( Pack shovel next time)


Turned back, I took a few tourist shots,  met a few girlfriends for coffee, and then rode my bike up Skyline where I bumped into a guy Tim I met at 7 mile last week and did a couple of runs with him and his mate Pete (Turd Sandwich is super slippery!)

First snow of the year

It snowed for 3 days solid and we took our split boards up Coronet peak for the first ski tour of the season. Up was easy, but my butt isn't quite up to It yet on the downhill, so on the way home we went to the Spa to recover..Nice

Aaron at the top of the ski field Getting his gear ready for the downhill. See those teeth..He's happy!

Monday, May 24, 2010

More pics of Aaron's project

Taken by G Charton

My boys and Bike maintenance



There were a few gear problems and the Handle bars were loose but now the flash blue gear bike is all go again! I cooked the Dinner while Bailey and Aaron did manly stuff in the Garage

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Bored!

It has been raining for a week and more to come. I have been to the indoor pools twice but am BORED If it floods that might liven things up though
http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/3635733/Queenstown-on-flood-alert

As some of you know I was trying Aaron's project( that was my first mistake) I was doing a move with a long pull from a heel hook up by my head and there was an almighty POP sound from my A@#( sorry Mum).
Luckily The tendon seems to have popped over the sit bone but other than having an almighty tug is OK I have however Pulled the Glut and Hammy so have been out of action I am getting so bored that I have been going up to belay people just to hang out. Sitting in a chair hurts so all the lazy day things are kind of out too. I can walk ( and have been doing some easy stuff on top rope) should be all better in another 2 weeks though so looking forward to it.
Aaron is making progress on his project trying the moves one day on the weekend and then doing heaps of milage to improve his endurance the next. Well he was until the torrential rains of the last week.

X o

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Art

Bailey with his picture of Chris' mark 3 on the race track blowing smoke out the back

On a more cheerful Note had a great time with Bailey wednesday night. We went for a walk with his brother and sister around the Chinese village in Arrowtown and the did art since I am a bit injured (torn Butt)
My picture- I haven't improved much over the years

Mitre Peak

Unfortunately a lady fell from Mitre peak and through the alpine cliff rescue team we were called in to Recover her.
Here are a few links In the photo Aaron is at the end of the long line and you can see me in the photo With the Helicopter in the ground.
 The other link is to TV3 news coveragewww.3news.co.nz/woman-killed-in-mitre-peak-fall-named

Monday, March 29, 2010

aaron's new route

Aaron is bolting and cleaning a new route at Project wall, Wye creek.
It is hardish- maybe 27 -fairly sustained and Steep. He thinks it will be a really good climb.
 G man took a photo of him abseiling down it on the weekend.
The lovely Estelle is watching him

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Real womens duathlon

I did the dualthlon with my boss/friend Judith.
3.5km walk,
10 km bike,
1.5km walk.
We did it in 1hr.27mins

Sunday, March 14, 2010

There was a great sunset last night

ZOOT TRACK

We shuttled( rode down and drove back up in the car) Zoot track (Old trail near Skippers), with Tracey and Iain after work on thursday. The photo's were pretty dark but here's one of Tracey and I trying to look hard core.

Promised photo's OF NBS boulder comp at Jardines


Sam Mangai. The mens winner in action

The Kiwi spot in action
Stooooo, Buff Dan and Marcel?
Wave Boulder

Barzilian dude from the Shell station on V6 in Virus boulder Cave

Jase says I'm 3rd ranked overall!

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Weekend climbing

NBS boulder series came to Queenstown.
I climbed well at the beginning and did 4 V5's but powered down seriously with my lack of fitness and had to have a V3 in my top 8 climbs. I was very lucky and came first in the lasies this year getting a nice Cactus voucher. Aaron tried a few slopey *'s and 7's but it started hurting his wrist so became photographer I'll add a few photo's when he down loads them.

I also had a day at Remarks with Alison and Sam. We did a three pitch climb on Alta slabs called the fat lady sings at the Circus. we got to lead a pitch each and lucky my pitch was easy as there was only protection every 10m or so!

Sam on pitch 2 we are heading for the pale streak up top

Sam and Alison

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Remarkables Traverse

For Simon and Pip's wedding in Feb lots of people came back to town
They came through Queenstown on Holiday and a group of us all went out to do the Remarkables Traverse.
Team: Bruce hasler ( guide) Mick heli skier not climber, AD Kayaker not climber, Frog( guide) , Simon, Aaron and I who are all climbers.
The guides teamed up with the non climbers and much to our suprise they were really fast and confident.
There was cloud on the Mountain tops but it was a nice sunny day otherwise

Easy ledges
Telecom tower( or weather station) If you go here you will need to rap off the cliff- most people head to the notch and miss this Peak


Simon on the technical crux( easily avoidable)


Me up in the clouds but still smiling


Lunch on Single cone summit( very different to Winter!)
we meet 2 tasmanians, a german , and Chris Prudden up there- a very popular spot


The normal descent would be the couloir but rather than get wet feet in the snow or get our rope out we scrambled down the North ridge. 95% walking Hands on for the rest.I was wearing 5 10 approach shoes which are nice and gripy though

A fantastic day. We were back at the pub sharing a few drinks in the Sun mid afternoon