Monday, July 2, 2012

Ice climbing stuff I love

Petzl Quark Ice Tools- Disclaimer: I work for the importer

The New Quarks are awesome:
Light weight- so you don't get drag on the swing.
Hooks for leashless- Never get pumped again! Never hit your Knuckles.
All mountain- Can be stripped down, along with the lightweight this is a one tool does it all tool.

Earth Sea sky Stretch Fleece leggings


Cosy and cuddly with out ever getting sweaty. I have other thermal layers but wear these everytime. Also great for winter running and biking


The natural confectionary company Forbidden fruit


Yummy and don't go hard in the cold. A pocket full of these will keep you going on the walk out.



Primal Scream, West face, Remarkables

Lovely Tony B came to visit and we climbed a route  with Michal. Not much ice at the moment and it was hard with rock slabs under snow.

Photo by michalkarnik.com
Me on Pitch 1

Photo by michalkarnik.com

Pitch 3 This overhung chock was the crux, nothing but slab on top, feet smeared on face. Tony let out a primal scream on the lead.

The "easy" gully finish wasn't that easy

Thanks to Michal for the great photo's.  It is a lot of gear to carry.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Blue velvet

Blue Velvet dosn't have great access notes so here's a cheat until new Guidebook comes out. Acess as going to Wye creek. Where the Tarns drain out, head right along the ridge past a shed sized block, then traverse basin and go down gully next to ice.  At top (below rock band) traverse off easiest way. It may go up and down.
Grade 2 170m

Paul at the Base of Blue velvet